We
arrived to sticky heat and a premature swell, to San Jose Del
Cabo, and an air conditioned condo that was our new best friend.
Let’s just say the pool water was warmer then the Jacuzzi
water, (and why they even had a Jacuzzi, I still don’t
know....).
Spanish
galleons first landed at Estero San Jose, at the mouth of the
Rio San Jose, to obtain fresh water near the end of their lengthy
voyages from the Philippines to Acapulco in the late 17th and
early 18th centuries. As pirate raids along the coast between
Cabo San Lucas and La Paz became a problem, the need for a permanent
Spanish settlement at the tip of the cape became increasingly
urgent.
In
1730, Jesuit Padre Nicholas Tamaral traveled south from Mission
La Purisima and founded Mission San Jose del Cabo on a mesa
overlooking the Rio San Jose some 5 km. north of the current
town site. Due to the overwhelming presence of mosquitoes at
this site, Tamaral soon moved the mission to the mouth of the
estuary on a rise flanked by Cerro del Vigia and Cerro de la
Cruz. Soon after Tamaral punished a Pericu Shaman for violating
the anti-polygamy decree, the Indians rebelled and burned both
the San Jose and Santiago missions in October of 1734. Tamaral
was killed in the attack. Shortly thereafter the Spanish established
a presidio, which served the dual purpose of protecting the
community from insurgent Indians and the estuary from English
pirates.
By
1767, virtually all the Indians in the area had died either
of European diseases or in skirmishes with the Spanish. Surviving
mission Indians were moved to missions farther north, but San
Jose del Cabo remained an important Spanish military outpost
until the mid-19th century when the presidio was turned over
to Mexican nationals.
A
few farmers and began trickling into the San Jose area in the
30s and in 1940 the church was rebuilt. San Jose del Cabo remained
largely a backwater until the Cape began attracting sportfishers
and later the sun-and-sand-set in the '60s and '70s. Surfers
have secretly known of the awesome lustre of waves in this region
for years. Many make the trek by driving all the way from the
United States, but in years past, airlines and more flights
have made Cabo San Lucas a more attractive surfing destination.
The
Baja Peninsula is anchored between the warm waters of the Sea
of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean. Its isolated ecosystems range
in climate from Mediterranean to desert, wetlands, to tropical
forests. Mountains extend from the northwest to the southeast.
It is cooler at the higher elevations and on the Pacific side,
and warmer in the desert and on the Sea of Cortez side.
Global currents in the atmosphere create high-pressure, insulating
this area from the low-pressure fronts usually associated with
rain clouds. So, Baja has very little rainfall, the wettest
months being December through April. The driest
coastal area is the northwestern shore of the Sea of Cortez.
And yet, one can see snow covering the peaks of the Sierra de
San Pedro Martir in the winter time.